19 February 2010

Hoi An, Vietnam

My affinity for Hoi An makes little sense. I did not see the chief cultural attractions because I had heard too many mixed reviews from other travelers and admission was unjustifiably high. The beaches are nice and good but there are better. One of the main attractions is bespoke clothing (more on this later), which entails a lot of decisions related to clothes (which I hate) and shopping (which I also hate). There are tons of tourists, foreign and domestic alike. (I do not think I have seen a high ratio of white-to-Vietnamese anywhere in Vietnam.) Still, Hoi An is one of my favorite destination in Vietnam and I do not know why. I think it just has a cool and relaxed vibe and is attractive and makes you just enjoy yourself.

Alright, I am going to get this out of the way right now: I did a good deal of shopping in Hoi An. I had three bespoke suits and six dress shirts made for me. I even went through the effort of buying the material seperately from where I had the suits made (cheaper and more fun/less excrutiating). I also had a silk robe made because I thought it would be funny. All this cost US$272. When I bought suits when I was working, I got off the rack suits from Brooks Brothers outlet store on some super sale for US$150 each. The suits I got in Hoi An cost $45, $80, and $81 and were made specifially for me. I must say I am pleased with how they turned out and hope I eventually have an opportunity to make use of them so they do not just sit in a closet.

Another highlight of my time in Hoi An was this little hole-in-wall "bar" we found. I know everybody always says those places are always the best, but this was even more hole-in-the-wall that those places. Calling this place a "bar" is not even accurate. This place was about 10-12 feet wide and 30 feet deep. Beer, the only beverage available, was served out of a keg was was sitting on the floor at the store's front. It was, however, great beer and cost 4000VND (under US$0.25) per glass. We went there on three different occasions. The sole employee knew not only us by face but the bicycles we rented. Every time I went there I had a good time casually (not heavily) drinking and talking to the people I was with and locals that were (heavily) drinking. It was good times all around.

Side note: Vietnamese drinking cultural in entertaining. Like much of Asia, they drink at all hours of the day. They almost never drink in mixed company. In places other than proper bars and clubs, instead of ordering a beer or a drink, they order a case of beer. They put ice in their glasses, which melts quickly not only because the air is warm but because the beer is not refridgerated. There is little talking among a group for extended periods of time but then they will erupt. It is entertaining to watch. It is also entertaining to be part of.

Hoi An is a cool place and one I would certainly be happy returning to. Especially if I need to have more suits made.

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